Sun 23 Mar
Since today was a significantly less ugly day than yesterday, we started out with another walk around the Jardin des Tuileries behind the Louvre, then looped around to walk along the south side of the Siene back to Notre Dame and headed down Boulevard Saint-Michel to see Le Panthéon. En route we discovered some lesser known Paris treasures, such as the Sorbonne, and the Musée National du Moyen Age, aka the Musée Cluny, which is either in or behind some unexplained ancient ruins. Sort of like the pieces of the London Wall, the ruins are just sitting there (within a fence) amid the fully upright architecture of modern Paris.
Le Panthéon, the final resting place of famous dead French folks like Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Marie Curie,
and Louis Braille, was hosting a big flower sale. It was a fundraiser for disease research, similar to the National Cancer Association’s Daffodil Days in the US, but they were selling a lot more than just single flowers; they had pots, arrangements, bulbs for transplant, and assorted other floral delights spread across the courtyard, plus bright yellow benches to sit out and observe the goings on (which may or may not be there year round). Due to it being Easter, we assumed le Panthéon was closed to the touristing public, not realizing that it was not a church so much as a “temple to the great intellectuals of France.” You’ve got to love a government - even a revolutionary one - that reconsecrates a church as a temple of the state because religion had fallen from popularity. Go France!
We circled around Le Panthéon to the Eglise Saint Etienne Du Mont, built over the course of 134 years and later dedicated to St. Geneviève, the patroness of Paris. Nowadays it serves as a standard church that churchgoing folk go to on Easter Sunday, but unlike most churches in America and other places we’ve been, this particular one had a guy with an electric guitar and small amplifier standing in front busking his soul out. It wasn’t quite clear if this was endorsed or condoned by the church, or if he was ready for a quick dash should any figures of clerical authority come outside, but there he was. Modern day in front of 16th century.
We stopped for tasty pastries at a shop near Palais du Luxembourg where they sell fancy chocolate Easter eggs upwards of €200 which we actually saw people buying. They had others on the top shelves which were far more ornate that may or may not have even had prices on them. We took our pastries in to the Jardin du Luxembourg and enjoyed them in the abundant seating around the fountain before wandering the statuary around the gardens. It wasn’t until we returned to London a few days later that we learned that the 1870 prototype Statue of Liberty which we thought we were looking at in Allée des Cygnes actually lives somewhere in the Luxembourg Gardens that we didn’t find (or know to look for). The gardens themselves are beautiful, and will probably be even more beautiful when things flower later this spring. We’ll just have to come back to Paris some time to take them in and track down the mini-Liberty.
After a solid morning of outdoor Parisian wandering, we decided we’d had enough of the cold and were ready to check out the Louvre. Being Clever Tourists, we used the Metro entrance to buy our tickets and skip the lines in the courtyard. It turns out that the lines aren’t actually due to the large quantity of people or slow processing or anything, but rather than hundreds of people per hour all need to funnel in to one escalator to get in via the Pyramid - whether they have a ticket or not. Some people skip the line and wait for the elevator, but you’re still waiting in line to get to the point where you can get out of it to reach the elevator. All in all, an aestetically pleasing but all together inefficient entrance. When we build our high-profile art museum, we’re totally going to create a mass entrance system that will rival the tap-in cards they use on subways in most cities now.
You go to Paris, you can’t miss the Eiffel Tower. Check. You go to the Louvre while you’re there, you can’t miss the Mona Lisa. Okay, rumor has it that it’s a ridiculous line/crowd, so we got that out of the way first. We had pictured the Mona Lisa as being all alone on a bare wall at the end of a long bare hallway, similar to the way it was represented in a carboard puppet book Keath had as a child where Mickey Mouse had to figure out who stole the Mona Lisa. It is nothing like that. And not just on a children’s book versus reality kind of way.
The Mona Lisa is indeed all alone on a bare wall, but it’s a freestanding bare wall in the middle of a room, more or less in the middle of the Louvre, which can be accessed via corridors on either side, and has many paintings on the four walls that actually define it as a room and don’t contain the Mona Lisa. Iestyn, Ceridwen’s brother, had told us that it would be much smaller than expected. Apparently, he was expecting a much larger painting than we had. The Mona Lisa was exactly the size we expected, and somewhat larger than our adjusted expectation after being told it would be smaller than expected. The funnel of people getting up close to get photos of it is rather amusing. There are tons of professional photos available in the world, taken with special arrangements to empty the room and control the lighting, etc, but everyone wants their own. The painting is behind glass, so chances are you’re going to get a flash flare and/or the reflections of the crowds in your shot. We tried our hand at a few shots over people’s heads, grabbed a requisite “look, I was here” photo of both Ceridwen and the Mona Lisa, and headed out to see the rest of the art.
Directly behind the Mona Lisa (on one of the aforementioned actual room walls) is Tiziano Vicellio dit Titien’s painting Allégorie conjugale, a classic example of Italian boobie-groping art. (Venus’ boob; Mars’ hand. While Hymen and Cupid watch.) We roamed the halls of the French and Italian masters, taking in the Passions of the Christ, a pair of Davids with matching heads of Goliath, the death of Cleopatra, Romulus and Remus as babies, some Napoleanic action
We worked our way across to see the Venus de Milo, taking in large quanities of art on the way. It would be wonderful to be able to take a longer visit to Paris and really spend multiple days wandering the Louvre, but our attention spans don’t really allow for packing too much art in to one day. Something we didn’t really know about the Louvre was that the building was a palace for centuries before it became a public museum (initially in the 18th century under Louis XV). In fact, it was a fortress from the late 1100s until Charles V converted it to a royal residence in 1358. Thusly, there are many areas that aren’t showing off paintings or sculptures, but objets d’art and the actual walls, ceiling, and furniture of the Louvre itself. We were most entranced by some crown jewels (of Josephine and Eugenia) and a ceiling painting apparently depicting Azrael looking down at the ruins of Paris (we couldn’t find a placard to confirm it’s content). Our travels also brought us past a temporary exhibit in a few rooms that included a man made of brass thumbtacks playing chess and a pair of landscape models depicting advancing armies of insects. Although interesting, they were definitely in contrast to the “classic” artworks surrounding them. It’s kind of hard to miss the Winged Victory of Samothrace, being in the middle of the main stairwell, but it is an imposing statue. Many people seemed to regard it as almost commercial sculpture - something inserted in to a space to keep it from being empty - and simply walked around it to get somewhere else. But if you actually stop to inspect it, it’s an incredible creation - this huge monolith of marble carved in the third century B.C. sitting on a similarly huge pedestal of more marble. The quality of detail was so defined that experts were able to determine by the musculature of her torso that when the statue had arms one of them was raised (later determined to be cupped around her mouth, presumably proclaiming a naval victory, once they discovered the hand).
Somewhere in the Napoleonic bedrooms we stopped for a sit down and observed the courtyard out the window. There are eight statues on the ledge of the balcony on the second floor of the Louvre, facing the courtyard, so we spent some time trying to make out the inscriptions or figure out who they were based on the statues. Clearly, our knowledge of French artists is inadequate. We identified Blaise Pascal and François-Eudes de Mézeray by name, and though we thought Mezeray was Molière, it turns out he’s the next one down, but that’s about as far as we got. Some extreme zoom on the photos after the fact revealed Nicolas Boileau and François Fénelon beyond him. Note: bring opera glasses next time, or get an obscenely large camera lens.
By this point we were getting pretty loopy, so when we got to the rooms of large architectural sculpture which you could walk right up to, we took our best shot at emulating the faces on the statuary. (Ceridwen tried to stare down a cherub, as Keath feigned death while standing.) Sparticus, Joan of Arc, and four Captifs representing the nations conquored by France (Brandebourg, Spain, Holland, and l’Empire, whereever that is) and their attitudes towards being conquored (revolt, hope, resignation, and abatement) were some highlights of the sculpture garden. We continued to work our way around, got rather startled on the large testicles on the status of Pan, and marveled for quite some time over the spectacular status of a small child wrestling a goose. Apparently, the mischievous struggle of a child trying to catch a goose was very famous in Antiquity. Go figure.
Eventually, we did actually find the Venus de Milo. She was less crowded than the Mona Lisa, but did have a big empty room all to herself. She was more or less as you’d expect, and frankly was a bit disappointing after all the other amazing statues we’d seen, but she’s famous, and we’ve seen her, so we can check that off a mysterious life list somewhere.
Post-Venus, we did a quick loop around the Medieval Louvre - the foundations of the fortress originally at this location - before arising from the depths out the Pyramid. Yes - for some reason there’s no problem funneling people up the single escalator.
Post-Louvre, we headed to the Bastille to see what there was to see: a monument in the middle of a traffic circle, a la Trafalgar Square. And a much trendier part of Paris than the other bits. Definitely a neighborhood worth considering for a return visit.
When night decended, we headed back to to Arc de Triomphe, this time heading up it to examine Paris at Night From Above. It was, in fact, a marvelous view, despite the rain. Possibly one of the most terrifying views of Paris is straight down at the traffic circle, which has no lines and makes no attempt to control traffic in any way - there have got to be at least a dozen near-misses every minute. Cabs cut off other motorists who cut off busses who cut off tourists in rental cars that go around the circle several times before finding their way to the outside enough to access a turn, at which point they have a fairly high chance of hitting someone on a scooter or bicycle swerving between vehicles. l’eek! We waited around for the top of the hour light show on the Eiffel Tower and then headed for dry land. And bed.
Categories: Austin
Leave a comment »